Nature, Food and the Arts Lend to a Revitalizing Escape
By Rob Bhatt, AAA Journey Editor-in-Chief
Western Journey (July/August 2014)
I had only been on Orcas Island for about a half-hour when I first noticed the aura of calm that had enveloped me. As I rounded the bend into Eastsound, a mysterious force, like one that might control the disc on a Ouija board, compelled me to park my car, walk over to the waterfront park, and gaze at the tide lapping up along the shore. Next day, a local merchant told me about the vortex, or healing energy field, that some believe exists on the back side of a tiny island less than 100 yards off the same stretch of shoreline. Though the gentleman who told me about it seemed to doubt the existence of such a phenomenon, I wasn’t quite so dismissive. After just 24 hours on island time, I was feeling so revitalized that the thought of supernatural forces at play struck me as rather plausible.
New Age vortex chasers are not the only ones to have sought the healing powers of Orcas Island. Shipbuilding magnate and former Seattle Mayor Robert Moran, who described the San Juan Islands as a “delightful place in which to regain health – physical, mental, and spiritual,” moved to Orcas Island in 1905 as he faced declining health. Though his doctors told him that he only had a few years left, Moran built an impressive retirement home, overcame his stress and lived to age 86. He passed away in 1943, but his legacy lives on at Rosario Resort & Spa, on the grounds of his Arts and Crafts mansion, and at Moran State Park, on land he gifted to the state.
Ferry Talk
Photo: Brad Miller
Locals recommend adjusting summer “weekend” visits to allow for Thursday arrivals or Monday departures to avoid the longest ferry waits. Six interisland ferry sailings a day (five on Sundays and Labor Day) facilitate day trips to neighboring islands. Hint 1: Relatively flat roads make Lopez Island ideal for soaking in the scenery by bike. Hint 2: Since summer is peak season for orcas viewing off the west side of San Juan Island, consider a guided kayak tour; outfitters pick you up at the ferry dock in Friday Harbor.
Naturally Speaking
With 38 miles of hiking trails and five lakes (along with 151 tent sites), it’s easy to immerse yourself in nature in MORAN STATE PARK‘s 5,579 forested acres, which climb from sea level to the 2,409-foot summit of MOUNT CONSTITUTION. Unsurpassed views from the observation deck atop the summit, the highest point in the San Juan Islands, can be reached via a 7-mile hiking loop beginning (and ending) at Mountain Lake; a shorter trail beginning near Cold Springs; or by car, via Mount Constitution Road. The 8-mile trail network through the 1,710 TURTLEBACK MOUNTAIN PRESERVE, west of Eastsound, lets you meander through quiet forests and meadows en route to vantage points offering unique perspectives across the San Juan Archipelago.
Island Flavor
You’d be hard-pressed to find a community that more fully embraces the locavore food movement. In Olga, DOE BAY CAFE showcases the bounty of its on-site garden on a mostly vegetarian menu, with a few dishes featuring local seafood, including oysters from nearby BUCK BAY SHELLFISH FARM. Back in Eastsound, the NEW LEAF CAFE at the OUTLOOK INN offers French-inspired touches on ingredients raised on or near the island. Breakfast means house-baked scones at TEEZER’S COOKIES & COFFEE HOUSE; lunch at ROSES BAKERY CAFE, with sandwiches served on house-baked breads, is an island rite of passage. Saturdays bring island-made artisan foods to the ORCAS ISLAND FARMERS MARKET on the Village Green.
Creative Inspiration
Paintings, prints, sculptures, textiles, ceramics and works in other media by island artists and artisans can be found at the ORCAS ISLAND ARTWORKS GALLERY. The artists’ cooperative temporarily moved its gallery to Eastsound as its Olga space undergoes repairs from fire damage sustained last summer. THE POTTER’S FESTIVAL (July 17 through August), brings works in a range of styles by local and national artists to CROW VALLEY POTTERY‘s “cabin” space, with participating artists offering demonstrations on select dates.
Find ‘Em
Moran State Park
parks.wa.gov/547/moran
Doe Bay Cafe
107 Doe Bay Road, Olga
360.376.8059
doebay.com/cafe
Buck Bay Shellfish Farm
77 EJ Young Road, Olga
360.376.5280
buckbayshellfishfarm.com
New Leaf Cafe
171 Main Street, Eastsound
360.376.2200
newleafcafeorcas.com
Teezer’s Cookies & Coffee House
330 N. Beach Road, Eastsound
360.376.2913
teezerscookies.com
Roses Bakery Cafe
382 Prune Alley, Eastsound
360.376.4292
Orcas Island Farmers Market
Village Green, Eastsound
360.317.8342
orcasislandfarmersmarket.org
Orcas Island Artworks
217 Main St., Eastsound
360.376.4408
orcasartworks.com
Crow Valley Pottery
2274 Orcas Road, Eastsound
360.376.4260
crowvalley.com
Washington State Ferries
wsdot.wa.gov/ferries
Photo Credits
Orcas Landing: Brad Mitchell
Original photos: Mike Sedam
This article appeared in the July/August 2014 edition of Western Journey.
